Town Trail...
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Key locations on the Town Trail include:
Jedburgh Abbey | Piper's House | Canongate Bridge | Goose Pool | Trinity Church | Queen Mary's House | Loupin' on Stane | Jedburgh Friary | Spread Eagle Hotel | Exchange Street | Prince Charlie's House | Jedburgh Public Library | Abbey Close | Jedburgh Castle Gaol | Sheriff Court | Market Place | Canongate | Newgate | Public Hall
Introduction
Established by the Scottish Borders Council and Scottish Borders Tourist Board, the aim of the Jedburgh Town Trail is to provide the visitor to Jedburgh with an added dimension to local history and give a flavour of the town’s development.
The Trail is approximately 2 miles (3 km) long. This should take about 2 hours to complete but further time should be added if you visit the Abbey and the Castle Gaol. The walk starts and finishes at the Tourist Information Centre in Abbey Place, from where a free illustrated copy of this text may be obtained, together with a Trail map of the town.
In order to guide the visitor, plaques are sited along the route at specific points of interest and information relating to them can be found within this leaflet. As some of the sites along the Trail are houses, we ask you to respect the owner’s privacy.
We hope you will enjoy walking around the Town Trail and trust that you will have a pleasant stay in Jedburgh.
Historical Background
The history of Jedburgh dates back many centuries. Around AD 830, Bishop Ecgred of Lindisfarne formed two settlements on the Jed Water, calling them both by the same name. The oldest written form of this name is Gedwearde - meaning "the enclosed settlement by the River Jed" - which dates from around 1050. By the mid 16th century, the name ‘Jedworth’ was being used.
Situated close to the National Border between Scotland and England, the town saw more than its fair share of turmoil. During the Wars of Independence in the 13th and 14th centuries, the English captured Jedburgh on numerous occasions. The town and Abbey were burned three times in the 15th century by the English, providing evidence of the strategic value of the town. The 16th century was no less troublesome and several attempts were made to restore order to the area. The English attacked and captured the town in 1544 and a year later, the Earl of Hertford invaded Scotland on the orders of Henry VIII of England and laid waste to vast tracts of southern Scotland.
The Union of the Crowns in 1603 brought an end to cross-Border warfare and brought about an increase in trade. The trade situation changed again in 1707 when the Parliaments of Scotland and England joined. The ‘Treaty of Union’ was supposed to be to the equal benefit of both Kingdoms but punitive taxes on traditional Scottish trade items saw a decline in industries such as tanning and malting in Jedburgh. As a result, there was a migration of workers away from Border towns like Jedburgh.
By 1741 the town was in a state of poverty and financial assistance had to be sought. Jedburgh, unlike some Border towns, was not subject to expansion as a result of the industrial revolution and early attempts to introduce woollen manufacture in the 18th century were unsuccessful. By the early 19th century however, the recovery from the Union had at last begun.
Today, the town retains largely the same plan form as it had centuries ago. Jedburgh lies on the A68 from Edinburgh. The quiet nature and great beauty of the town and its Abbey make it an essential stop for tourists from all over the world. The sight of the Abbey as you approach from the south gives a real sense of the history of the town you are entering.
Start the Jedburgh Town Trail at the Tourist Information Centre. Cross Abbey Place and stroll along the raised walk, called ‘The Ramparts’, towards the War Memorial. Once a year during the summer, this is the centre of festivities when crowds gather during the Jethart Callant’s Festival, to see the town’s principal - the Callant - receive the Jethart flag. He then carries the flag with him on horseback during Festival Day. At the end of Festival Day, respect is paid at the War Memorial to all those who have lost their lives in armed conflict.
Looking towards the Jed Water, the large grassed area was once the site of the North British Rayon Mills. Continue until you reach the Abbey Visitor’s Centre.
Jedburgh Abbey - There has been a religious foundation associated with Jedburgh for many centuries. Ecgred, Bishop of Lindisfarne in AD 830, granted land to the church of Lindisfarne and a place of worship was built in this area. There was no building on this site until the 11th or 12th century. A priory was founded by King David 1 (1124-53) in 1138 and its status was raised to that of an Abbey in 1154.
In the early years of the Wars of Independence, the Abbey was wrecked and plundered by the English under Sir Richard Hastings. The Abbey was thrice ravaged in the 15th century, in 1410, 1416 and again in 1464. In 1523 English troops, under the Earl of Surrey, put the Abbey to the torch once more. Repair work was completed only to have the buildings burned again by the Earl of Hertford in 1544. Hertford was carrying out the orders of Henry VIII who wanted Queen Mary to marry his son - Prince Edward - but his ‘Rough Wooing’ proved unsuccessful. English forces occupied the town once more in 1548 but the following year, the Scots were reinforced by a strong contingent of French troops and the English withdrew. Work was undertaken on the Abbey and although in a fairly poor state of repair, it was used for the consecration of Bishop David Panter in 1552. The Abbey was suppressed in 1559 as part of the religious Reformation in Scotland. Suppression meant that the monks could no longer recruit new members to the order.
The Abbey church was then used as the parish church until 1875 when a new church was built in the town. The Abbey then ceased to be a place of worship. After this, the architect Sir Robert Rowand Anderson, under the guidance of the Marquis of Lothian, started restoration work on the Abbey. In 1913 the Abbey was taken in to guardianship by the H.M. Office of Works and is now a Historic Scotland monument. The Visitor’s Centre has a small museum and a video display explaining more about the Abbey. If you make a visit to the Abbey, you should expect your visit to last at least 1 hour and an entrance fee is charged.
On leaving the Abbey, cross the road using the underpass directly in front of the Visitor’s Centre and walk along the side of the Jed Water. To the right, over the river is the Laidlaw Memorial Baths, now part of the Waterside Fitness Centre, where if you have time, you can enjoy a relaxing swim. The path follows the approximate line of a mill lade which powered both the Abbey Mill (below the Abbey) and a snuff mill which was about half way along the path. The grassy mounds within the park are formed from the rubble left over when the British Rayon Mill, which used to occupy the site. was demolished in the early 1970s. A short distance along the riverside, you will come to Piper’s House and the Canongate Bridge.
Piper’s House - The Piper’s House dates from 1604 although it was remodelled in 1896. If you look at the lintol over the central window on the first floor, you can see the initials of Adam Ainslie - who built the house - his wife Janet and the date 1604. The window replaced the original entrance door that was at the head of a flight of stone stairs.
The town’s last official piper, Robin Hastie, is said to have occupied a portion of the house. On the last crow step (stones on the gables giving a stepped appearance) to the south east, there is a carved figure of a piper. According to Sir Walter Scott, the Hastie family had been Burgh Pipers for three hundred years. When Hastie died in the early 19th century, Scott wrote that "old age had rendered Robin a wretched performer but he knew several old songs and tunes, which have probably died with him". The building has corbels (a projecting stone which supports another feature) on the south elevation that may have been used to support a lean-to building. Head along to Canongate Bridge.
Canongate Bridge - Now used only as a footbridge, this was at one time the principal route into the town. It is interesting to note that, for defensive reasons, the approaches to the bridge are more or less at 90 degrees. Built in the 16th century, this is an attractive three-arched bridge. Under each arch are chamfered ribs. Originally each span had four ribs but the easternmost arch now has only two. Notice the way the cutwaters - which relieve the pressure of the flowing water on the bridge - carry right up to parapet level. When you get onto the bridge itself, you see the reason for this, in that they form refuges where pedestrians could get out of the way safely of traffic. This would have been for most of the time horse traffic, including the stagecoach from Edinburgh to Newcastle. The eastern refuges contain chamfered stones, possibly from the Jedburgh Friary.
On the upstream side of the bridge is a ford across the Jed Water. This ford is still used by horse riders instead of the bridge and each year during the Callant’s Festival, the Callant is followed across the ford by massed ranks of riders.
On the left is a large 1930’s building, which occupies the site of Well House, a reminder that Jedburgh’s water supply was not always piped. The steps on the right hand side of the building lead down to the well although this is no longer in use.
The road ahead of you was the original approach to the town from the north and this would have been the route that Bonnie Prince Charlie took on his way into England. Turn left and walk along Waterside Road. The grassy hill in front of you is Stone Hill, where there used to be a stone tower, the walls of which were 7 feet (2 metres) thick. This was one of a number of towers located around the town that would have aided in its defence in times of attack. In 1523, the Earl of Surrey reported that Jedburgh had "six good towers therin, which towne and toweris be clenely destroyed, brent and throwne downe". The foundations of the tower were removed in 1852 and sadly nothing remains of it today.
At the end of Waterside Road. cross the A68 - take care as this is a busy trunk road - and you are on the Townfoot Bridge. If you wish to extend your walk, before crossing the bridge, walk along Old Bongate. About 100 metres along, you will find St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, which was designed by the architect Reginald Fairlie in 1937. Return to the bridge and rejoin the main route.
Goose Pool - Until construction of the bypass in 1974, the Townfoot Bridge routed the A68 through the town. The council records from the 1680s refer to a bridge at this point but it has long since been removed. The Townfoot Bridge is made of concrete and was designed in the 1920’s by J.A. Leslie & Reid Engineers and spans 68 feet (20.5 metres) with a single arch (one of a group of five identical bridges over the Jed Water, the others being Station Bridge, Inchbonny, Hundalle and Ferniehirst). Slightly to the south on the waterside stood one of the Jedburgh towers called Pyle’s Walls. The area of water around the bridge is called Goose Pool, as this is where the villagers used to keep their geese. Continue walking and bear left and you reach the end of High Street, this is the Townfoot area of the town.
Trinity Church - On the right-hand side as you reach the foot of High Street, is Trinity Church. Originally the Blackfriars Church was in this area, perhaps even on this site. A new church was built here in 1746 and reconstructed in 1818 in its present classical style. There are fine stained glass windows in the building and it was in this vicinity that the hospital called Maison Dieu was located on Pleasance. This was one of the two hospitals in the town during the Renaissance.
This area of the town is where horse-trading used to take place and was called Horsemarket. The horse market was later moved from here to Abbey Close, only to return after protests from Townfoot residents. Walk along Queen Street, which is across High Street.
"Queen Mary’s House" - This building dates from the last quarter of the 16th century and was originally harled (a mixture of lime, sand and small stones which protects the rubble stonework). During her temporary residence in the town in 1566, it is known that Queen Mary rented accommodation from Lady Ferniehirst who had been a Scott before her marriage, both families being supporters of Queen Mary. In 1693, the Femiehirst family were known to own the Tower of Jedburgh which was "situated near the cross", at the head of Canongate. A further clue to the building's history comes from the arms on the west side of the building. These are those of the Wigmer family and would have originally been placed there in the 17th century, although they were re-carved at a later date. Since the Ferniehirst family was not a branch of the Wigmer family, it is unlikely that the Queen did in fact ever stay here, although the building is representative of the type of house which existed during the time she was alive. Given that Surrey had destroyed Jedburgh in 1523, it is likely that this building was built in the years immediately after the attack.
The building was thatched until at least the 1890s when red tiles replaced the thatch. In 1980, the roof was re-covered with slates. In the grounds, there are several pear trees, a fruit for which the town was once famous. The main pear orchard for the town was on Lady’s Green - the site of the former British Rayon Mills - and at one time, there were over 40 types of pears growing here. You can also find a Dark Age crossbase, upon which are carved fantastic beasts. Inside there is now a small museum with many artefacts relating to Queen Mary and local history. The Museum is open from Easter to October. Walk up Smiths Wynd to High Street.
Loupin - on - Stane - In front of you is the Bank of Scotland and in the grounds you find the "Loupin' - on - stane", used as a step-up to allow riders to mount their horses. At one time, this was the house of one of Sir Walter Scott’s friends, Sheriff Shortreed. Behind the bank, where there is now a supermarket, is part of the site of Jedburgh’s Friary.
Jedburgh Friary - Even though this building has been demolished, this is still the most extensive Franciscan Friary now visible in Scotland. In the 15th century, Sir Andrew Ker of Ferniehirst provided this site so that the religious order of St Francis might establish a community in Jedburgh. To distinguish ‘black friars’ of the Dominican order, the Franciscans were known as ‘grey friars’ from the colour of their habit or gown. Unlike other orders, the grey friars had close links with the community and they provided services such as healing for the sick and teaching for the locals.
Much of the former Friary was used as a market garden and it was only in 1982 that development proposals led to an archaeological investigation. The site was investigated over two years with the Co-operative Society providing funds for further work in 1991-92. The following year, Borders Regional Council consolidated the site. To show where remains are located under ground, brown gravel between sandstone edging represents original walls, drains are shown with grey cobbles and graves are marked by white gravel. Remains of walls under the car park are marked by red setts and drains by grey.
The present garden is based on historical research and has been laid out to reflect medieval interest in horticulture and the science of healing. The friars would have been self-sufficient in most things as they grew flowers, vegetables, medicinal herbs and plants that were used for other purposes such as floor covering and dyes for clothing. Return to High Street and turn right to walk uphill.
On the opposite side of the street next to the Post Office is the former Library. The Dunfermline-born philanthropist Andrew Carnegie opened this in October 1884 and there is a stone plaque on the building to commemorate the event. A new Public Library was opened in May 1900 on Castlegate.
Spread Eagle Hotel - On the right hand side of High Street, you will find the Spread Eagle Hotel. Notice the gilt double-headed eagle over the entrance. The present building dates from the early 18th century. Queen Mary reputedly visited the inn that used to occupy the site when she stayed in the town in 1566. Near this spot stood Morscrope Tower, one of the six defensive towers of the town although its exact site is not known.
High Street is also famous for the ancient game of Handba' which is played each year in February between the 'uppies' and 'doonies'. It is said to have originated after the local men attacked a group of English raiders who had been causing a great deal of suffering in the area. The severed head of the leader of the English troops is said to have been thrown in the air, which discouraged his soldiers, causing them to flee. Another explanation of the game is that it is a spring ritual where the ball represents the sun. Whatever the true origins of the game, the event is now part of the town’s heritage and is eagerly awaited by all in the town. At the head of High Street (where the town’s corn market used to be held) turn right into Exchange Street.
Exchange Street - This street, which is still known locally as Burn Wynd, is one of the four ancient streets of the Burgh which lead directly to Market Place. Here you will find Nos. 3-5, formerly a bank. Designed in 1868 by David Rhind as a branch of the Commercial Bank, the upper floors were designed as a flat for the manager. Notice how the central window at first floor level is a smaller version of the entrance.
No. 11 was designed in 1899 by the renowned Borders architect J.P. Alison as commercial premises for the Co-operative Society on the site of the former Corn Exchange which was destroyed in a fire in 1898. The design displays early use of 'curtain walling', in other words, the majority of the wall is glass and in this, it is quite exceptional. Notice also the carved shields on each of the piers at first floor level. A mill may have been situated to the rear of the building at one time.
There would have been a port - an entrance - to the town here, not far from the junction of Exchange Street, Friarsgate and next to the Skiprunning Burn, which still flows underground at this point. Turn in to what is now called Burn Wynd. This brings you to the rear of the houses lining Castlegate. Walk along Cornelius Close to emerge at the foot of Castlegate, please mind your head as the pend is quite low. Turn right and head uphill.
Nos. 1 and 2 Castlegate are set back from the rest of the buildings. Built in the 18th century, this house was altered in the 19th and again in the 20th century. Notice the crow step gable and ball finial on No. 3 next door. Turn right into Under Nag’s Head Close. The drum staircase - on your left - was added in 1978 to the rear of Nos. 3-5 Castlegate (which dates from the late 17th century) and replaced a range which extended back from the building. Although this is a later addition, it returns the building to something like its original plan form. Walk along to the end of the Close and turn in to Blackhill’s Close heading back to Castlegate. This allows you to see the back of the building which has some interesting features and brings you out at Prince Charlie’s House.
Prince Charlie’s House - During the 1745 attempt to restore the Stuart Monarchy. Prince Charles Edward Stuart - Bonnie Prince Charlie - is said to have stayed in this house on 6 & 7 November whilst making towards England with his army of supporters, a stone plaque on the first floor commemorates his stay. There was a complicated sundial at second floor level, which bore the Latin inscription "FUMlT CUNCTUS NOVANTHUS", although the sundial and the arms have now become badly eroded. An unusual feature of the sundial was its bowl and slab faces. Most of the building has been restored or rebuilt and little of the original fabric remains. Continue uphill to the Public Library.
Jedburgh Public Library - This building replaced the 1884 public library on High Street. It was completed in 1900 to the designs of George Washington Browne who specialised in designing libraries. Andrew Carnegie and his wife returned to Jedburgh in May 1900 to open the library.
The building is reminiscent of grand 16th century Scottish architecture and is not at all out of place here. Above the doorway there is a carved panel which says "LET THERE BE LIGHT". The ground floor is built on a raised basement and is reached by a set of six steps. The library has a wonderful arched window which occupies a large proportion of the front wall, allowing light to flood into the building. The librarian was originally provided with a flat above the library but this was converted some years ago to provide offices for the Registrar. Cross the road and turn left into Abbey Close.
Abbey Close - This now quiet cul-de-sac provided access to the ceremonial West Door of the Abbey and west claustral (relating to cloisters) range. David’s Tower (or D'Abbie's Tower as it is sometimes called) once guarded this approach to the Abbey and was located at the junction of Abbey Close and Castlegate. This was the site of the residence of Bishop David Panter in 1552. Demolition of the tower took place some time in the mid to late 17th century.
Within Abbey Close itself, you will see on your right a building called ‘The Nest’ which was built in the early 18th century. King James VI granted the site in 1610 to Alexander, Earl of Home. The house, which occupied the site at that time, was called Wrain’s Nest. Later in the 17th century, the house passed to the Laird of Edgerston who may have been responsible for the building that you see today. In 1821, Jedburgh Academy took possession of the building and schoolrooms were built in 1843, only to be burnt down in 1911. If you look at the gable heads, you will see the initials GF and MM, standing for George Fife (the headmaster of the Academy) and Marion Millar whom he married in 1862. The Academy closed at the beginning of the 20th century and the building has since been converted into two dwellings.
Here also is a stone plaque commemorating the fact that the author William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy stayed for a while in a house on this site during their visit to Scotland in 1803. Whilst there, they were visited by Sir Walter Scott who doubtless told them many tales of the Borders. This was also the site of Mary Somerville’s house. She is noted for having founded Somerville College for ladies at the University of Oxford.
Return now to Castlegate and continue uphill into the Townhead area. The building that projects out on the left hand side is No. 48 Castlegate, dating from the 17th century. The harling has unfortunately been removed and other changes made which lessen the visual appearance of the building but it is still important as being one of the oldest buildings on the street. From here on up, the houses mostly date from the 19th century but all have typically narrow strips of gardens to the rear. When No. 60 Castlegate was reconstructed in the early 20th century, it was found that much of the paving in the garden consisted of tombstones from the Abbey. Clearly, the ruins of the Abbey were used as a source of stone for the people of Jedburgh. If you look up at the buildings on your right, you will see a stone carving of a bull. This came from the former coaching inn, the Black Bull, which is now No. 10 Canongate.
Jedburgh Castle Gaol - This was built on the site of a Royal Castle, which had been constructed to defend the town from southern attacks. The Royal Castle would have overlooked the entire town and a good impression of the commanding prospect can be gained from the brow of the hill. Although it is not certain exactly when the castle was built, it was in existence in the 12th century as it was here that King Malcolm IV died in 1165.
The grandest Royal event that took place in the town was the second marriage of King Alexander III (1241-1286) to Yolande (daughter of the Duke of Dreux from France) in October 1285, during which time the Royal party would have stayed at the Castle. It was a great honour for any town to be visited by the King but to have a Royal wedding as well would have been a cause for widespread celebration; imagine the buzz that there would have been as visitors and officials gathered from Scotland and France. The ceremony, according to legend, was marred by the appearance of a ghostly apparition, foretelling of Alexander’s death within a year. Sure enough, the King was killed when his horse fell from a cliff in Fife, plunging Scotland into turmoil and eventually leading to the Wars of Independence with England.
Whoever controlled the Castle controlled the town and much of southern Scotland, so Jedburgh was vital to the English in their attempts to subjugate Scotland. During the late 13th and early 14th centuries when the Wars of Independence were at their height, there were several occasions when the Castle passed back and forth between Scottish and English control. King Edward I of England visited Jedburgh at least once during his reign and he doubtless looked from the castle to the town below. By the 15th century, the Scots had had enough of the frequent changes in control and demolished the Castle in 1409 on the orders of Regent Albany.
By 1819, all that was left on the hill was the town’s gallows. The following year, work started on the construction of a prison, based on the design principles of the penal reformer John Howard. No longer a prison, the building now serves as a local history museum and here you can see videos on local events such as Handba' and the Jethart Callant's Festival. The Museum is open Easter to October and an entrance fee is charged. Return down Castlegate.
No. 91 (at the head of Castlegate) is a modern building dating from 1935 very much in the spirit of Scottish Architecture. The semicircular tower with its bellcast roof to the left of the building, is an elegant feature. Unfortunately, some of the original wooden windows have been replaced. No. 89 is thought to occupy the site of the Townhead Port, the former southern entrance to the town.
As you head back down the hill, the buildings are of mixed age, ranging from mid 18th century to late 19th century. Half way down, set a short distance back from the road, is the Glenbank Hotel dating from the early 19th century, which is plain but well proportioned. As you get nearer to Market Place, you will see that most of the buildings have been modernised but the plan form of wynds and closes to the rear remains almost unchanged.
On your right, opposite the Library, is a red sandstone building which is the town’s small Masonic Lodge designed by J.P. Alison in 1903. Notice the panels above the doors. That on the left reads "IN THE LORD IS ALL MY TRUST" and the one over the right door reads "ANNO DOMINI 1903", although this is now badly eroded.
On this site was the town’s flesh market where meat was sold. On the road was the lawn market where goods such as linen were traded. Here also is the town’s Police station, presumably this is no coincidence as it is right next door to the town’s Sheriff Court.
Sheriff Court - On the right just as you leave Castlegate is Jedburgh Sheriff Court, originally the site of the Council House. Built in 1812 by French prisoners of war (who may have been responsible for the town's local delicacy, Jethart Snails), a courtroom was added in 1861 to the designs of the Edinburgh architect David Rhind. Sir Walter Scott, who made his first appearance as a defence lawyer here in 1793, often visited the previous court building. There is a plaque (on the Market Place side of the building) dating from 1932 to commemorate the centenary of Scott’s death. The building is still used as a court and justice is regularly dispensed from here. Walk the short distance into Market Place.
Market Place - This was the centre of the Burgh’s social and economic life. Here traders would come from all over Scotland and even the continent to sell goods. A Mercat Cross once stood here, its position marked by a plaque set in the middle of the road. In a law passed by King William I (1165-1214) it was a requirement that all goods for sale in Burghs be presented at the "mercat and mercat cross". Mercat crosses signified the trading status of a town or village and served additional functions as sites of proclamations and punishment. Weekly markets were held on Mondays and Fridays. although this was changed in 1639 to Tuesday and Friday to stop people having to travel on a Sunday. The Cross was possibly removed in the 19th century as part of the ‘improvements’ carried out to the town.
Also set in the ground of Market Place is a plaque marking the position of a tower which once stood here, the Kirkwynd Tower, which guarded the approach to the Abbey from Market Place. The first official record of the tower is in 1551 but it may have pre-dated this. By 1787, the tower was in a dangerous condition and roofless, finally being demolished in 1791.
Notice the Jubilee Fountain of 1889, built to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria. This is an ornamental gothic column, which is topped by a unicorn - the Heraldic supporter of the Royal Scottish Arms - holding the Burgh shield. There are cast iron lamp fittings grouped around the top of the column but - strangely for a fountain - no water. Turn right into Canongate.
Canongate - This was the primary entrance to the town, leading as it did from the Canongate Bridge. At the end of the bridge would have been the Canongate Port, a fortified entranceway. No. 2 Canongate is built on the foundations of an earlier building and these are still visible in the basement. There are many fine 18th century buildings including the white building on the left. Notice the two small circular windows on the first and second floors. Next door is No. 10, the site of the former Black Bull Inn. Prior to 1759, the centre of Canongate had a group of buildings running down its length. This was called the 'Tongue o’ the Canongate'. At the Market Place end would have been the town’s Tolbooth before it was replaced by Newgate.
At the foot of Canongate is a modern housing development dating from 1985, which has a distinctly Scottish appearance. Opposite these flats was the site of a house in which Robert Burns stayed on his visit to Jedburgh. There is a plaque - with a profile of Burns which originally had a light blue background with the head picked out in gold leaf - marking the spot of the house. Further down the road is a plaque commemorating the birth of the scientist and inventor of the kaleidoscope, Sir David Brewster. With the re-alignment of roads and the construction of new bridges. Canongate lost its status as a major thoroughfare but it is still a busy shopping street. Here also is the Royal Hotel - which was previously the Harrow Inn. It was perhaps renamed after the visit of royalty to the town although this is not certain. Return now to Market Place and walk towards Newgate, which is in front of you.
Newgate - This is a harled building with an archway and a tall spire. The building replaced the tolbooth which had once stood here. The gatehouse was started in 1756 and the spire was added later on, work beginning in 1761 and finishing in 1791. The 118 feet (36 metre) high spire houses three bells. One of these dates from before the religious Reformation of Scotland (1525-1560) and may originally be from the Abbey.
Before you walk through the arch, look up and you will see a carved stone panel bearing the Burgh Arms with the date 1720. Notice also the town’s motto "Strenue et Prospere" meaning "With vigour and success". This plaque was taken from a wellhead of the town’s first public water supply and proves that you cannot always tell the date of a building from a dated stone. It was built into the spire during the early 19th century.
Once under the arch - which was at one time closed off by a pair of folding gates - the doors you see to either side of you lead to cells. These are quite small and windowless. Just imagine the conditions for the prisoners during the cold, dark winter days. On the level above was the cell for condemned prisoners and they would have had a bit more to think about than the condition of their surroundings. That having been said, crime was low in Jedburgh in the latter part of the 18th century when only five people were condemned to death "but not one of them for murder". If you look up when you are under the arch, you will see that the ceiling is formed by timber joists and not by vaulting as you might expect.
Once through the arch, you get another view of the Abbey. Again you find yourself on the Ramparts. When the French reinforced the Scots who were defending Jedburgh in 1548, their commander General D’Esse constructed gun platforms on the eastern side of the Abbey to afford it some protection (remember that the Castle had been demolished by the Scots in 1409). It is from these gun platforms that this raised area takes its name.
Through the railings you can see the old cemetery with many gravestones dating from the 17th century. The ground and the nave of the Abbey itself would have been used for burials from the time of its foundation. In 1993, during the laying of a gas pipe in Abbey Place (the roadway on your left) "several skulls" were discovered, thereby extending the known graveyard limit towards the north side of the road. In the 18th century, Abbey Place is where the Jedburgh cattle market was held. On your left is the Carters’ Rest which was at one time the Jedburgh Grammar School until the new building on High Street was built in 1882. Go down the steps into Abbey Place and cross the road. The large sandstone building in front of you is the Public Hall.
Public Hall - The Public Hall was designed in 1900 by the architect J.P. Alison and completed in 1901 in a style described in a contemporary journal as "an adaptation of the later Renaissance period". The Public Hall was designed to replace the town’s Corn Exchange, which had burned down in 1898. The Hall can accommodate around 800 people. Below ground level, two rooms from an old malt barn remain. The malt barn at one time served as the town armoury. The Hall itself is quite grand with a barrel vaulted ceiling supported by pilasters (the flat version of a column, rectangular in shape and projecting from the wall) and ornamental scrolled brackets, called consoles. There is a gallery supported on cast iron columns, providing further seating for the public.
To the right of the Hall is Murray’s Green car park which was upgraded by Scottish Borders Council in 1999. During the excavation work, some bones were found which probably related to a burial in the Abbey as this area would have been part of the Abbey Precinct.
Return to the Tourist Information Centre and the end of the Jedburgh Town Trail. As this has been a short walk, not every aspect has been covered but we hope that you have gained an insight into the town’s history and architecture and trust that you will return again soon.
Extended Walk
By walking along the Newcastle Road or through Lothian Park, you arrive at a place called Inchbonny where you will find "Hutton's Unconformity". This is one of the most important geological sites in the world. CLICK HERE for further information.
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