Culinary Tour - Bread, Cakes and Cereals...
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ABERDEEN ROLLS (BUTTRIES, ROWIES)
Description: The comparison between Aberdeen Rolls and French Croissants, at least in terms of texture if not appearance, has been made by several writers. It has been suggested that rolls and croissants have a common ancestry that dates back to the end of the seventeenth century in Budapest after the defeat of the Turks. It’s unclear as to when rolls were first made in Scotland but where ever they came from they have subsequently became an Aberdeen speciality. If you visit the Northeast of Scotland you will find Aberdeen Rolls on sale in every bakery, corner shop and supermarket and if you taste them you will be hooked forever. The names Aberdeen rolls, Butteries and Rowies are interchangeable so take your pick or even use them all, you’ll be understood what ever you call them. Rolls are roundish, about 10cm across and slightly higher in the centre than at the edges. They are golden to dark brown in colour, can be either crispy or soft but must be slightly salty. They also have a very high fat content which is largely butter (hence the name buttery) with some lard. Recently a vegetarian version has been introduced with the butter and lard being replaced by vegetable fats.
Method: Unlike pastry, which has to be made using cold kitchen tools, yeast breads ought to be made under warm conditions to allow the yeast to raise the dough, hence make rolls under warm conditions. Sieve the flour and salt into a large bowl and set aside for a moment. Cream the fresh yeast, sugar and a little of the tepid water together and add to the bowl of flour. Mix the ingredients together with enough water to make a smooth firm dough. Transfer the dough to a well floured surface and knead well for about five minutes. Place the dough back into the bowl, cover with a warm slightly damp cloth and set aside in a warm place for about an hour to allow the yeast do its work of expanding the dough to about double its original size. While the dough is rising cream together the butter and lard in readiness for the next step. When the dough has risen knead it again and then roll it out on a floured surface and then spread it with a third of the butter\lard mixture and sprinkle lightly with flour. Fold the dough in three and roll it out again. Repeat the proceedure twice more. Roll out the dough quite thinnly and cut into squares. Bring the four corners of each square to the centre, shape them into rounds and flatten slightly with hand - do not over handle the dough. Place the uncooked rolls onto a floured and warm baking tray and leave them in a warm place to rise for about half an hour to 40 minutes. Bake the rolls in a hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for about 15-20 minutes until golden brown and crispy on both sides. The rolls can be eaten warm (absolutely fabulous) or set aside until they are cool and stored. Rolls can be made in a large batchn and subsequently frozen for later use. If defrosting the rolls in a microwave oven do not over heat otherwise the rolls will become limp and the fat content will become over-heated and sizzle. Aberdeen rolls can be eaten dry (without anything spread on them), spread with butter (just in case you really hanker after an early coronary, even if the rolls do then taste splendid) or spread with jam etc.
Ingredients: These qualities will make about 16 rolls; 1 lb of plain flour; 6 oz butter; 4 oz lard.1 heaped teaspoon of salt; 2 heaped teaspoons of sugar; ½ oz fresh yeast; ¼ pint of tepid water.
BANNOCKS (or OATCAKES)
Description: A barley and oat-flour biscuit baked on a gridle. In modern times bannocks are often eaten with cheese. There are several traditional recipes and many manufacturers in Scotland today.
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BLACK BUN
Description: Black Bun is a very rich fruit cake, made with raisins, currants, finely-chopped peel, chopped almonds and brown sugar with the addition of cinnamon and ginger. It takes its name from the very dark colour.
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PORRIDGE
Description: A simple dish, made of boiled oatmeal. It needs to be boiled slowly and stirred continuously with the traditional spirtle - a wooden stick which is about 30cm (or 12") long - to avoid the formation of lumps! Porridge should be thick and wholesome, not thin like gruel. It has remarkable properties for preventing hunger. Today it is often eaten for breakfast, with the addition of milk, and a small plate keeps you feeling full until lunchtime. Traditionally crofters in the Highlands of Scotland would make a large pot of porridge at the beginning of the week. Once allowed to cool, it would be cut into slices, and the crofter would places a slice in his pocket eack day for lunch. Porridge must be cooked with salt to obtain the correct flavour. Those eating porridge outside Scotland have been know to cook it without salt and indeed eat it with sugar or even syrup, which is a habit which would turn the stomach of any Scotsman (or Scots-woman).
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SCOTCH PANCAKES
Description: Sometimes called drop scones. Serve warm, with butter and honey, or jam (Preserves). Makes 30-40
Method: Sift the flour with the salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in half the milk, add the egg and beat well. Stir the liquid, gradually bringing the flour from the sides of the bowl into the centre, mixing continuously. Stir in more milk until the batter is the consistency of a thick cream, and will just run from the spoon. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Lightly grease a heavy frying pan (skillet) or griddle iron, and heat. When it is really hot drop two or three spoonfuls of the batter mix onto the surface, making sure to keep them separated. Cook for 2-3 minutes. When the undersides of the pancakes are a golden brown, bubbles will rise to the surface. Lift the pancakes with a fish slice, turn over and brown on the other side.
Ingredients: 8oz self-raising flour (225g); ½ teaspoon of salt; ½ pint milk (290ml); ½ egg beaten
SHORTBREAD
Description: Traditionally shortbread used to be eaten at Christmas or Hogmanay (New Year), but is now eaten all year round. The name may suggest it is bread, but in fact it is like a sweet biscuit.
Method: Mix the flour, rice flour and sugar together. Cut the butter into pieces. Then add to the mixture, using your fingertips to rub it in, until evenly distributed. Knead the mixture to form a soft, but not sticky dough. Divide the mixture in half and using your hands, shape it into two rounds, about ¾ inch thick. Using a knife, make a notched pattern around the edges. Place the rounds on a greased baking tray (cookie tray) and bake at Gas 3/325 F/160 C for about 45 minutes. Leave to cool.
Ingredients: 7oz plain (all-purpose) flour (1 3/4cups); 1oz rice flour (1/4 cup); 4oz butter (1/2 cup); 2oz caster sugar (1/4 cup) (Use Granulated Sugar);
SKIRLIE (OATMEAL and ONIONS)
Description:
Method: Melt the fat or heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the oatmeal and mix in well. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the stock and allow it to be absorbed by the oatmeal. Seaon well and serve with light creamy mashed potatoes. Skirlie may also be used as a stuffing for any kind of game bird or poultry. It is also a very good accompaniment to rich meaty and gamy stews.
Ingredients: 4 oz fat or 4 tablespoons of oil (traditionally a good flavoured dripping or beef suet would have been used); 2 onions, finely chopped (optional); 1/4 pint chicken stock (optional); 8 oz medium oatmeal, lightly toasted; Salt and pepper to season
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